Baptism of Fire (or rather rain and wind)

This last week has been a bit of a test of our resolve. There has not been any improvement from just sweeping showers and wind over almost all the week. Temperatures have dropped 5-8 degrees at about 10 degrees in the morning and maximums getting up to 15 to 16 degrees at best. We have resorted to heading south as far as Nantes one day and heading inland for most of the others. This has generally worked out okay despite spending more time than we would like on the road. For sure, we have successfully knocked Brittany and Normandy off any list for Third Gear options. So that is a positive result.

From a touring point of view it has been a bit disappointing not to have made Brest, Quimper and Lorient areas and we have spent time in towns of little interest. We also have reservations about an idea to do a walk along the coast (GR 34). At first glance it looks an idyllic way to spend a week or so; wandering along the coast and dropping into the next seaside port/village for a great seafood meal and a nice comfortable hotel room ………….maybe one September in the future.

The forced slowdown combined with having Sarah (who is a different kettle of fish to Rachael) with us, has been useful in helping us to move from more of a see the sights mindset and more into developing our ability to “normalize” day to day living. This means, no need to get up with the birds in the morning. One can have a good jog or a brisk walk in the morning followed by a bit of breakfast, a catch up with the news, some work on the computer and then a walk up about 10am for a coffee in the local village.

We can decide on goals for the day and have a light lunch before heading off for an afternoon outing. So this is the time of the day for a principal achievement and the time I expect we will be working harder at this over July and August when we are on our own and a lot closer to areas we are more familiar with. But, for the moment, we are home in time at the end of the day for our brisk walk along local roads, once or twice heading off after 10pm.

The other challenge emerging is how we can each achieve our own day to day goals and amusements without doing things together all the time. At least with Sarah around we can split up into two groups from time to time, but as Randall’s language skills and local knowledge is superior to the other two, our separations have been limited thus far. I expect that next week when the ladies are further into Paris sights and shopping, we will have more opportunity to go our own ways a little more.

We have also learned a lot so far on the pluses and minuses of each gite and the limitations this nomadic lifestyle has on developing new skills and knowledge. We have plenty of things to get stuck into over the coming months.

Reflections over a coffee or two

We have now been on this trip for two months so perhaps it is time for another review against our aim to test whether France will become a bigger part of our future living. This gite in Brittany is the fourth of the ten over our six month stay.

I am still keen on the lifestyle and the almost endless opportunities to enjoy such a wide range of leisure activities, weather, geography and cultural opportunities. Given the language gap and French love of bureaucracy, it could be a challenging project to buy a second home here. The project will always be a secondary thing which leaves open still the question of what are our prime activities in our third age. Realistically, we are not very likely to create any form of small business venture, at least in the short term.

To be comfortable with the life here, at least until Sarkozy gets a level of change through, you have to cope with places shutting down over lunch, with limited Sunday trading, with late morning starts to the day, and with a slow pace to life in most respects. Union power seems to be as strong as ever. Here in Brittany, we have airport issues with striking firemen, trains not running because of driver strikes, auto route “go slows” as the maintenance workers are unhappy and are closing down lanes surrounding cities (Rennes, Lorient, Brest etc).

The indifferent weather is also a big factor against any consideration this far north in France. Our English friends are facing another wet Wimbledon, local floods and “unseasonably cool” weather. We have not lived in Melbourne for many years and are just not used to living in weather like this. So Brittany, Normandy et al are not candidate areas for secondary homes.

The language challenge is ever present so you need to be constantly working at improving if you are to get comfortable every day. We still have our moments-good and bad.

Over the last week we have been within range of BBC radio coverage. Although there has been a lot of sporting event coverage with a bit of politics thrown in (cricket, golf, car racing, Ascot horses, Blair leaving and pre-Wimbledon tennis), the chit chat leaves me thinking that England much the same as ever and, more generally that Europe remains a place of great focus on traditions. So, if we are to create a base in Europe, France is as good a place as any, and probably better than others. Nothing definite here to decide as yet and the project remains on the books.

We do enjoy the opportunity to just enjoy being alive and well. We have discussed a lot of things over our daily coffees. Sarah has found one sugar daddy but probably not the one she has in mind.

Bayeux and Omaha Beach War Cemeteries

We liked the Commonwealth war cemetery at Bayeux and the US cemetery at Omaha Beach is large and impressive. In line with the current political climate and our always evolving and negative attitude feelings towards current US leadership, we felt that it is a bit over the top to be electronically scanning all visitors to the cemetery, to be faced with George W’s photographs at the entry and the just a liitle too emotional museum like exhibition which has been built here since our last visit some twenty plus years ago. Nevertheless, probably a must see place to gather an appreciation of what happened here in 1944.

Waiting for high tide at Mont St Michel

Must see sights in this area include Mont St Michel and the D-Day beaches and so we have made visits to these places. Plenty of tourists around in both places as you would expect.

Not good for Coffee here-we wuz robbed

Huelgoat is also an interesting place. The town is located along a lake or stretch of water with an old watermill which is now the tourist office. We stopped for a drink here, spoilt by the coffee offered being instant-much to Sarah’s disgust.

At least the weather was okay today

Windy Roscoff

With the ongoing poor weather, we have put off for a sunny day a planned excursion by boat up La Rance from St Malo to Dinan. We have visited St Malo for our internet fix and we have been filling our days with visits along the La Manche coast. Mainly late morning take offs or light lunch at home and then a long afternoon checking out the sights.
We are now at the longest days of the year and this means we can cover a fair distance during the afternoons. We have drifted as far as Roscoff to the West and Bayeux to the East. Brittany has an almost totally different feel to Normandy, being more twee with the white painted houses. Normandy has a more rural, courser feel to it, and not that much different to Dordogne.

Sunday in the sun/rain/wind

We have been in Brittany now for almost two weeks. Our routine has needed to take account of the poor weather and the long days where it is not dark until after 10 pm. We have often started the days with an easy walk into town for a baguette and a coffee. Randall is maintaining a regime of an early 5-6 kms run on alternate mornings and we have tried plenty of small local roads to go for an after dinner and before dark stroll. After trying a few variations we have settled on a 3.5-4 kms loop past several farms, local homes, a couple of gites, two light industry facilities, a well being hotel and a gross new house that the local mayor has on the top of the rise. Yvonne has the step counter tuned up and operating and Sarah sets the pace.
Last Sunday we did return to Cancale for our seafood lunch. Each year they have a bit a celebration dedicated to the sea and fishing with plenty of small boats out and about a three of four replica “old timers” strutting around the harbour. Plenty of other visitors about even though this was the last day of celebrations. Saturday was the main day but unfortunately the weather was lousy. But we had our fix.

Looking, looking, looking

As we wander along the coast West of St Malo, we drive into these small ports for a coffee and sometimes a crepe or two. Sarah is keeping an eye out for a reasonable sized yacht but most are a bit too small for her taste as yet.

St Tropez is a bit to far away for us this time, so we are being content with the displays here. Always quite cute to see the small boats sitting on the sand waiting for the tide to come back.

When the sun returns we will be back for seafood feast

It looks like we will have to become better judges of the weather and more adept at executing our days out if we are to make the most of our time here. Two days ago we drove over to Cancale for a wander around. The low tide was just turning and it was fascinating just sitting on the pier watching the incoming tide refloating boats. It was a very sunny day and there were plenty of takers for seafood platters along the many waterfront eateries. Promised ourselves we would be back here soon for our turn to enjoy the meal and outlook.

New home sweet home

Another overcast day, another gite, another Department in another Region. We are now ensconced in Brittany with daughter Sarah. The gite is well located at just a few hundred metres from Saint Jouan-des-Guerets, a small village close to La Rance. So we can easily walk into town for a baguette although the café is a bit on the “only if you are desparate” side. There are plenty of small local roads for us to take our after dinner and before dark (10 pm) stroll.

This gite is joined to the owners home but has a separate entrance and own back yard. Another downstairs kitchen/living with upstairs sleeping configuration. Comfortable for living although chief cook and bottle washer says it must have been set up by a man as the kitchen has only basic cooking utensils. No gourmet meals will be cooked here over the next three weeks.

Who is more relevant to me, Jayden or George W?

Perhaps I just need to forget the daily pressures to converse in a foreign language, to get more used to the need to continually be looking at maps and brochures to find these nice little nooks and crannies in France and to enjoy more the freedom that we have created for ourselves. There is a life without the TV and Internet.

We are going home soon

We have met up with Ash and Rach after their day in Paris and now we are off to CDG to send them on their way back to Oz. Their holiday is over and we have a few days before Sarah arrives on Monday next. We are looking forward to seeing her and for the three of us to enjoy Brittany and Picardy.

Is This our new home, Mr Hooker?

When Jayden wakes up we will go into Chantilly for a wander around and a spot of lunch. This afternoon we might go over to Senlis or we might take a long stroll through the magnificent forests around Chantilly.

A Day of Reflection at Chantilly

I am finding that it does not take too much to impact feelings and attitudes on this whole escapade. I am writing this on the terrace of Le Pavillon Saint Hubert Hotel on the banks of the L’Oise River in Picardy. We had a great last evening meal out last night in Chantilly after travelling up from the Dordogne yesterday. Rachael and Ashley have caught a train from Chantilly to spend their last day in Paris. Yvonne is upstairs in the hotel room minding Jayden during his morning nap. It is a perfect early summer’s day and we are about 4kms from Chantilly centre and the magnificent Chateau. So why am I feeling just a bit nervous and agitated?

Might it be because for the first time in several weeks, we are catching up with news via CNN? Recently, I have just remained in touch with sporting news, rugby and tennis and have forgotten about politics. I look at the G8 coverage and “America Elections 2008” and want it to go away. Hit the off button, remember that we still have money in the bank then I get back to planning more interesting things to do. A houseboat drifts by as I finish off my Perrier.

What else can we do today after a lunch like that?

From here at Les Arques, we went on to visit Monpazier and Belves but we are just about time expired in the Dordogne. We are off to Paris tomorrow to encourage Rachael, Jayden and Ashley to return to Oz and work. We have tried to show them a bit of this country and hope they will try and return some day. After all Ashley did propose to Rachael last time they were in Paris.

On a less interesting note, Randall and Ashley have enjoyed watching the rugby finals on TV with a few of the locals in Cenac.

There have also been a some attempts to keep fit by jogging through the local lanes and small roads. . One morning the two joggers were also chased down the road by a helicopter. Not sure of the reason for this but it felt a bit eerie. Ash thought of grabbing the skids a la Bruce Willis but by then we were in the forest and they were out of our reach!!

Rachael's Dessert-La recreation

We have also enjoyed a great meal at La Recreation restaurant at Les Arques (Great book: “You can’t see Paris from here”). Not too many people at lunch with us. The inevitable pommes and us Australians. Jayden missed out on even a taste of his favourite fruit.

We all know the two people who had the duck

There is no effective comments to be made here. The Bergerac wine was a good choice too and the steaks were almost as good.

Lunch at La Recreation-Les Arques Lot

Rachael and Ashley shouted Randall and Yvonne to lunch at Les Arques. If you have read the book "You can't see Paris from here", you will know the story. Main course and dessert to follow!!

I turned one today

We had a great picnic near Chateaux Montfort and Fenelon to help Jayden celebrate one year of life. He made a great fist of his birthday cake covered in fresh strawberries. Another great day in the countryside.

The Squire and his family after lunch in Cenac

It is a nice walk through the fields and beside the Dordogne from Cenac to the Gites. Helps if the weather is fine too.

Mother's Day in the Dordogne

We have visited Domme, Sarlat market, the gardens at Marqueyssac and Eyrignac, Perigeux, Fenelon, Beynac, Hautforte and Castelnau castles. We spent Mother's Day afternoon wandering in the Marquessas gardens which overlook La Roque Gagneac and Castelnau. The shared ice cream dessert topped with fruit and cream afterwards was ok too!

Rapunzel looking for her man to return from Domme

The distance from Cenac, which is big enough for the basics of café, boulangerie, brasserie, small supermarket etc, is fine. It is a nice walk of less that 25 mins to the village. We are in the hills here and there a plenty of great views of the Dordogne and of Domme.

This area of the Dordogne is full of things for both tourists and for the locals to do in Summer. The place is especially full of Pommies and Dutch baby boomers. A new sign at every turn and another campervan at every bend in the road. The riverside has plenty of great camping grounds with lots of canoes to use on the river. We can imagine what it must be like in summer when the French are here in numbers. So this is a great place for a short visit but not a great area for a second home. The Lot might be less twee and “Postman Pat” but I feel more comfortable there.

We are here in the Dordogne for two weeks living in Gites and less than 3 kms from Cenac. Things are great when the weather is with you. You can relax outdoors in the spring sunshine all day long up to at least 9pm. You can have a nice meal outdoors with great views of the countryside and you can walk or drive around the sights and just enjoy the lifestyle.

When the weather is off, then you are a bit trapped by the size and comfort of the Gite and the two “ears” variety has limits. Space is compromised as we sit around in the kitchen/family/lounge area. TV coverage of just the free to air variety is just not watchable. The chairs are ok for a while but it would be nice to have a decent lounge chair or two available. On the other hand, the second Dordogne gite ( 3 ears) has more facilities, is bigger and has been recently renovated so we are quite comfortable with it, whatever the weather. Something to remember if we actually go further into buying a place.