Wednesday 4 July 2018

On foot in the foot of Italy



We have now spent three days wandering around the streets of old Palermo. Foot soldier Yvonne has only complained a few times as we deal with a city that has seen off the Carthaginans only relatively recently. And some of the lanes around here are still awaiting repairs from Hannibal's elephants even if they actually crossed in Italy via Spain and then the Alps, not here.


We are now well established in our B&B in the La Kalsa district, formerly wearing a distinctly Arabic influence and the after effects of Allied bombing in WWII. And without wheels of our own, we have limited ourselves to the old parts of town. A modern city is a modern city is a city.




That said, Palermo centro has plenty going for it and we have not lacked for interesting things to do and places to visit. Just a few of the large number of churches as you would expect in such a catholic culture. Will they ever escape the greedy powers of Rome? We have also visited several old palaces, the markets, a gallery or two whilst all the time people watching, dodging cars and scooters and keeping our eyes peeled for interesting cafes and eating places. History has left some seriously great marks here, that is for sure. Especially Norman and Arabic. Especially interesting was the recently discovered and now uncovered art/history left by Inquisition prisoners-despite efforts by the Church to cover up this part of their story.


Actually, apart from the very hot weather in the middle of the day, getting around on foot is quite easy and navigation not a problem since those Romans liked to build very straight main routes.


And as with Sardinia, these Italians are friendly and easy to engage with. From the local patisseria and coffee spot just a few metres from the front door to the local Arts and Tradition pizza place, the numerous drinking spots and up to the restaurants, we have enjoyed it all so far. Outside of the old town, there may be other aspects of Palermo which are not so good. But we will not be seeing any of that. With its long and distinctive life under Greek, Cathage, Norman, Arab, Spanish and now Italian domination, this is a city centre well worth a look. Of course one has to do a little research to even begin enjoying the city. So as foot soldier Yvonne enjoys the last of her sleep each morning, Tour leader RDK leaves for an early morning city walk to finalise the places and the routes to be taken each day. As the city also wakes up and starts moving, he also gets another view of the people and places.


But our time here is rapidly expiring and we leave here by hydrofoil to the Aeolian Islands tomorrow afternoon. Emerging 'Food Fuehrer' Yvonne is specifying the location for our last dinner here after our excellent trial run last night. And we have not seen a drop of rain since we left Tuscany a few weeks ago and the place could use some. But that means long and balmy evenings dining outside is the go here. Fantistico.
 


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