On the terrace of the Domaine Du Chatelard, a Relais du Silence not too far from Angouleme in the Charente, we sat enjoying our lunch and the completion of the walk across the northern Dordogne. So what can we do next?
We were more than satisfied with our efforts and began reflecting on the moments we had had along the way. The last walking day, as planned, was somewhat symbolic, a bit like the last day of the Tour de France in Paris - an exhibition. We were on the road just a couple of hours this last day.
It might have been a bit of a doddle but we had to remain focussed. At one stage we almost lost our way and had to carefully cross a field of wheat to get back on track.
The day before was always going to be our hardest at almost 30 kms and it proved to be thus. Despite making a couple of route shortening changes it was almost 7pm when we arrived at our chateau B&B, fairly tired and ready for a big rest. The weather is slowly getting warmer each day which makes afternoon walking quite an effort. Fortunately, and rarely for this trip, we had passed a local supermarket earlier in the day where we bought some lunch and extra drink. And that, together with some fruit we had already with us, sustained us for the whole day. No chateau dinner for us that night.
But we had completed our walk across the Dordogne and were now in the Charente, which seemed quite amazing to the young lady who met us for our stay in the family home. She had left her job with the owner of McLaren and Tag Heuer on avenue George V some years ago to return home and help her aging father and sister. Now they were into establishing a B&B business to go with the paintings of forebears on the walls and the extensive grounds of the place.
We slept very well in our Rapunzel like room and after the usual french breakfast and a farewll examination of the last wolf of the Charente, who is now stuffed in a statue of liberty like pose and holding an electric lamp, we were on our way again. Yvonne being too amazed to record Mr Wolf for our blog.
The day before that, when we walked from Brantome to Vieux-Mareuil, had been a bit shorter than the usual for this walk and we were lodged in our Blue Lake hostellerie by 4 pm. This place was also in a time warp. The same couple have been running it for over 40 years, almost on their own now it seems. With 70s style facilities but with the public rooms set up in hunting fashion with various stuffed animals around, it has a very unique atmosphere. He cooks and runs the admin, she is hostess and all round boss. It works well and although we were the only diners that night we had a great meal and some interesting conversation. And France has drifted a little too far to the Left it seems for this couple.
And that takes me back to our fifth walking day from Chancelade to Brantome. This proved to be a longer effort than planned - an optimisitic 28 kms. Well, we were well rested and the area not so hilly so it should have been a reasonable day! We did stop for a fair while at Bussac where the local 'vide grenier' was happening. One has mixed feelings about these events; they can be seen as 'you bring all your junk things and I'll bring mine so we can swap days' or a chance for communities to get together as spring matures and before we all go off for summer holidays. They happen in almost every community in France at this time of the year.
So we observed the stalls, the interchanges, the cheap trinkets going for kids, the rides etc as we ate our lunch. A couple of crepes suzettes and Perriers menthes and then we were off again.
But the delay made for a long afternoon and Yvonne especially was feeling the pinch. But we got to Brantome and after a well deserved and well presented meal we were back in the land of the living. And sitting in a good hotel with great views of the river and around Brantome helped us recover.
So the question still comes. What can we do next time? Research almost underway.
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