Saturday 30 May 2015

Reflections from the train

 
This is a good moment to reflect on the walk and why we did it. Of course, within the group there are at least two views and you will get the dominant one here. But at least all the photos were chosen by one of the other members of the group.
 

Just time for a quick chat along the route.


The main reason that we like a lot of things about France and about the south-west in particular. France is that it is one of the few developed countries, it seems, where the internal drive is not all about economics. In this part of the world, cultural values are very important and the old ways are difficult to leave behind. Of course most of the younger ones have left for the big smoke and we did pass a lot of places where each house is really a mini self contained retirement village and you are never sure if the people inside pottering around in their often well cared for gardens, are really just waiting to pass over to whatever comes next.




And they do take things slowly here. Most people are up for a chat. This can be annoying if you are waiting to pay for your newspaper, groceries, restaurant bill, hotel bill, train ticket or drinks until you finally realise that this is the way we do things here. You have to have a chat with our B&B hosts. You have to exchange views with the walking groups you meet along the way. You have to take just those few seconds to pass a comment or two with the supermarket check out people. You have to wait until madame has searched her giant bag for the money to buy her magazine. You have to wait until all staff selling train tickets are across the latest mini issue and the solution debated until anyone will resume attending to you.

 

 
But along the way and in the countryside, we enjoyed the solitude of the walk. Just us, with the birds, the deer, the fox, the cows, the sheep (not many here), the annoying dogs at each house it seems, the snake, the camels, the ducks and geese, the elephants and the Australian made hippo that became Yvonne's seat on the chateau lawns.
 




Things artistic are another attraction. And for us, the attention to detail is often amazing, even if a little kitch. House gardens around here are often enhanced with gnomes, rabbits, deer, ducks and other animals of the forest, as they blend into the forest nearby.
 


But we have met some very interesting people during this short walk. The middle aged couple who have turned former chateau stables into a classy restaurant and hotel, serving fine modern food and reasonably priced wine. The highly educated sisters refurbishing dad's chateau in between maintaining horse riding pastimes. The aging couple refusing to meet the modern world, tucked up in their dream hostellerie for the last 40 years. The open and highly organised lady running the B&B where we started and finished the walk and who could not do enough for us. The many great little restaurants we enjoyed along the way in very attractive settings and with attentive staff working their butts off.


Finally there are just a couple of things we will do for the next time. Firstly, even though we have done longer distance days in the past, we seem to have slowed down. So we have to shorten things up a bit. Secondly, and despite loving the peace of the forests, we should now look for walks through more villages - or places where we can pause for a few moments and enjoy a break.

We were lucky with the weather, even though we know through experience that May is often a great time in this part of the world. We had a couple of sharp showers on our second day only. For the rest of the time, we had overcast mornings and clear afternoons. Not too hot and not too cool. Perfect for walking. And the hotter weather is just around the corner and it will be a lot warmer next week.


Now we are in Toulouse for the weekend. No loose gooses here we hope. Toulouse rugby play a semi final today so maybe the place will be jumping. Roland Garos is going well and we are in great shape for a dive further south and then over to Corsica and Napoleon country. Just 200 years after his bloody loss and exile to St Helena.


And as Randall looks at the mighty train that is to take us from Angouleme back to Brive he thinks "This could be a useful addition to the train collection"   And it was a good ride too.

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